Choosing the right fabric is the most underestimated decision in product development. A beautiful design in the wrong fabric feels limp, shrinks after the first wash or stains the skin. In this guide we list the most commonly used textile materials — with their strengths, their pitfalls and when to best use them.
1. Cotton: the classic
Cotton remains the most widely used natural fiber in the world. It breathes, absorbs moisture and is skin-friendly. Almost always the right basis for T-shirts, sweaters and baby clothes.
NB: shrinkage of 3% to 8% on the first wash is normal. Ask your producer for one pre-shrunk treatment or take this shrinkage into account in the pattern grading.
Subtypes:
- Combed cotton — smoother, stronger, premium look
- Carded cotton — cheaper, rougher surface
- Organic cotton (GOTS) — without synthetic pesticides, premium price point
- Recycled cotton — durable, but less fiber length → often mixed
2. Polyester: the workhorse
Polyester is strong, wrinkle-free, colourfast and cheap. Indispensable for sportswear, linings and uniforms. You can solve the sustainability debate by: recycled polyester (rPET) to choose from PET bottles — comparable performance, significantly lower CO₂ footprint.
Disadvantage: breathes less than natural fibers, can become static and releases microplastics when washed.
3. Viscose and modal: softness from wood
Viscose (rayon) and premium modal are semi-synthetic fibers made from wood cellulose. They have the shine of silk and the suppleness of cotton. Ideal for blouses, dresses and linings.
Always choose brands with a sustainability claim FSC certified wood as a source, or for Lyocell (Tencel®) that is produced with a closed solvent cycle.
4. Wool and merino: performance from nature
Merino is the aristocracy among wool: thin fiber (17–19 microns), non-scratching, thermoregulating and naturally antibacterial. An excellent choice for outdoor, sports and basic luxury collections.
For traditional wool, pay attention to the Woolmarkcertification and op mulesing-free origin for animal-friendly production.
5. Linen: the summer herb
Linen is one of the oldest cultivated textile fibers. Strong, cool, hypoallergenic and becomes more beautiful with age. It wrinkles — that's not a defect, that's character. Keep this in mind in your brand story.
6. Technical and performance fabrics
There are specialized fabrics for sports, workwear and outdoor:
- Spandex/Elastane — added in 2–8% for stretch
- Microfiber — extremely fine polyester, quick-drying
- Coolmax®, Dri-FIT® — moisture-wicking synthetic fibers
- Cordura® — extremely abrasion-resistant nylon for workwear
The gramme: the measure you need to know
Fabric is sold per grams per square meter (g/m²). This is the objective measure of thickness and heaviness. A rough indication:
- 120–150 g/m² — light T-shirt, blouse
- 160–200 g/m² — classic T-shirt, polo
- 240–320 g/m² — sweater, hoodie
- 340 gsm and above — premium oversized hoodie
Checklist for your fabric choice
- What is the primary use case? (sports / casual / formal / work)
- Which season? Summer (≤200 g/m²) or winter (≥280 g/m²)
- What sustainability claim do you want to make? Ask for certification.
- What's your MOQ and the fabric fits within it
- Is the fabric available in all desired colors, or does it require coloring?
Are you unsure between materials? We will be happy to send you a sample package with our most requested qualities. Please contact us.
