The color you see in your mood board is not the color that ends up on the fabric — unless you know which dyeing process you are using. The difference between reactive and pigment paints is not just a matter of cost; it determines washing fastness, hand-feel, environmental impact and color progression over time. Here's what you need to know as a brand.
Dyeing process 1: Reactive dyeing (for cellulose)
The gold standard for cotton, viscose and linen. The dye forms a covalent bond with the cellulose fiber — that is, the color becomes part of the fiber itself.
Advantages:
- Excellent washing fastness (grade 4–5 out of 5)
- Deep, vibrant colors possible
- Hand feel remains soft
Disadvantages:
- High water consumption (60–100 L per kg of fabric)
- Salt use in the dyeing process — wastewater treatment required
- Not suitable for synthetic fibres
Dyeing process 2: Pigment paints
Pigment adheres to the outside of the fiber via a binder — similar to paint on a wall. Works on virtually any fiber, including blended fabrics.
Advantages:
- Lower water consumption than reactive dyeing
- Suitable for mixed fibers and synthetics
- Vintage look achievable (colours for character)
Disadvantages:
- Lower washing fastness (grade 3–4)
- Fabric feels slightly stiffer
- Less suitable for very deep or dark colors
Dyeing process 3: Dispersion dyeing (for polyester)
The only way to polyester can be colored deeply and washfast. The dye penetrates under high temperature (130 °C) and presses into the fiber.
Advantages:
- Excellent color fastness on polyester
- Resistant to UV and washing
- No color loss over time
Disadvantages:
- High energy requirement (heating up to 130 °C)
- Not suitable for natural fibres
- Wastewater contains components that are more difficult to degrade
Dyeing process 4: Digital textile printing
The latest generation: inkjet technology sprays pigment or reactive ink directly onto the fabric, based on a digital file. No filming, no screens.
Advantages:
- No MOQ — economical from 1 meter of fabric
- Unlimited colors and complex patterns possible
- Up to 95% less water use than conventional pressure
- Fast turnaround time: from file to printed fabric in days
Disadvantages:
- Higher cost price per meter than traditional printing for large volumes
- With pigment ink: lower wash fastness
- Requires fabric with specific pre-treatment (coating)
Comparison table
| Process | Fibres | Wash fastness | Water use | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Reactive | Cotton, viscose, linen | ★★★★★ | High | Deep, lasting colours |
| Pigment | Universal | ★★★☆ | Resourse | Vintage look, mixed fibres |
| Dispersion | Polyester, synthetic | ★★★★★ | Medium-high | Sports, technical |
| Digital | Pretreated fabrics | ★★★★ | Very low | Small series, complex patterns |
How to choose the right process
Three questions that usually decide the choice:
- Which fiber Cotton → reactive (premium) or pigment (vintage). Polyester → dispersion. Mixed fiber → pigment.
- What volume Below 200 meters → digital level crossings. Above 500 meters → conventional paint is almost always cheaper.
- Which sustainability claim Digital is the lowest in water consumption, followed by pigment. Reactive gives the most beautiful colors but the highest environmental impact (without ZLD treatment).
What we recommend
We often combine for brands in the construction phase pigment paints for basic colors (lower risk, lower MOQ) with digital printing for signature pieces (creative freedom, low minimum purchase). For brands with a strong sustainability positioning, we opt for reactive dyeing under OEKO-TEX conditions with wastewater treatment.
Are you unsure which dyeing process suits your collection? We are happy to make a sample comparison with your signature color in three different processes — so you can feel and see what the difference means.
